Saturday, September 26, 2009
Thierry Mugler
Mugler's early training was as a ballet dancer, but he also studied design and created garments for friends at the same time.
He moved to Paris in 1970 and worked as a window-dresser, designing clothing "on the side".
He launched his first line Café de Paris in 1973,and founded his own label for women two years later, to be followed by designs for men in 1978.
Mugler's work over the next two decades had a style that was very much of its time: Shoulders were wide and padded; waists were wasp-like.
Prints were banished: Mugler's clothes came in solid, dominating colours. Collars had exaggerated points or flamelike cutouts.
The insect kingdom was a constant influence, as were the people of film noir. In his most extreme runway garments, PVC was often used, as were space and robot themes. Mugler's fashion house did not survive the 1990s, though vintage versions of his more wearable designs are popular on auction sites like eBay.
Angel Men 1997 saw the start of a lucrative partnership with the French cosmetics and skincare company Clarins, the best-known Thierry Mugler fragrances being "Angel" (sometimes outselling Chanel No.5 in France) and "A-Men" fragrances.
The Thierry Mugler company is now best known for its perfume division: the couture division was closed in 2003, but, reopened for the Winter 2008 collection, helmed by Rosemary Rodriguez, formerly of Paco Rabanne, who has also created the label's most recent ready-to-wear collections.
A line of spectacle frames, created under various licensing agreements, is also available. Thierry Mugler has since turned to other artistic interests. He has published two books of his fashion designs and photography, controversially inspired by Stalinist propaganda:Thierry Mugler (1988) and Fashion Fetish Fantasy (1998). In 1992, Mugler directed the video for George Michael's single, "Too Funky," featuring a parade of Mugler fashions including the famous motorcycle dress.
More recently, Mugler collaborated with Cirque du Soleil on its 2003 show "Zumanity" at the New York New York Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas. This is Cirque du Soleil's first show for an adult audience.
Mugler will serves as the main costume designer for Beyoncé Knowles' latest concert tour, I Am... Tour. Knowles selected Mugler for the position after becoming enamoured with several examples of his work at New York City's Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute's "Superheroes" exhibit in May, 2008.
He has signed on to create a 58-piece wardrobe for Knowles, her dancers and band for the tour. Mugler's input will extend to the role of "creative advisor", as he will contribute to designing the entire show, from lighting to choreography, directing three of the portions of the production , "Dangerously in Love (song)", "Ave Maria" and the show's finale. Several of his vintage pieces are seen throughout Knowles' videos including the leather carapice bodice in "Diva", and a gold robotic suit in "Sweet Dreams".